Discussion:
Pullman Bread Loaf Questions
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Mickey Zalusky
19 years ago
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I just made my first Pullman Loaf Sandwich Bread (Pain de Mie) from "the
"Bread Bible. I was very careful to weigh all the ingredients. The
bread was very easy to make and tastes great but I was hoping for a
tighter crumb. I put the dough in my regular loaf pans (I din't own a
pullman loaf pan and lid for making perfectly square bread) and baked as
per the recipe's directions. Does the special square shape and lid of a
pullman loaf pan affect the crumb? The crumb was pretty airy but very
tender. Since I'm used to making Ciabatta-type breads, I also didn't
roll out the dough but just flattened it a bit with my hands to get the
right shape before putting it in the loaf pans. Is there a correlation
with crumb tightness and punching out the air from the dough before
putting it in the loaf pans?

Mickey
Dick Margulis
19 years ago
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...
Yes to both questions. The Pullman pan constricts the expansion of the
dough, resulting in a tighter crumb. This is intentional.

With regard to moulding the loaf, yes, how you do it matters. Flatten
out the rounded up and rested dough to about an inch thick oblong (long
axis going away from you, short axis side-to-side). It should be as wide
as the pan is long. Fold the front edge about two-thirds of the way
toward the back. Fold the back edge forward to about the middle. Now,
starting at the back, roll a tight sausage (as tight as you can without
tearing the surface). Whack the seam with the heel of your hand to seal
it along its whole length. Place in the pan, seam down.
barry
19 years ago
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...
Dick,

You've covereed the molding problem. Is there a way to bake it that would
approximate a Pullman pan? I've thought that if one were to do final rise
in a pan that was tightly covered and had a weight placed on top, such as
the books show, and then flipped over and the weight placed on top of the
pan, thereby pressing the pan onto the baking surface, that the crumb would
stay tight eough to be good Pullman bread. Or am I over-thinking this?

Barry
Dick Margulis
19 years ago
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...
Barry,

I don't see the point of flipping it over. Just leave the lid and weight
in place and bake. I've never felt an urge to make a Pullman loaf at
home, but if I did, the sort of improvisation you're describing would
probably work. The only caveat is that if there is really too much dough
it might squeeze out under the lid, even with a weight. A Pullman lid
slides on and is quite tight and stiff. So you would want to use
something heavy, like a chimney brick, for the weight (possible problem
with a cold brick, in terms of thermal mass--might want to remove it
after ten minutes so the top can brown uniformly under the lid). Also,
you would want to use a pan with as nearly square a cross-section as
possible. A lot of consumer loaf pans are sloped significantly.

Dick
barry
19 years ago
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...
The reason I thought flipping might be a good idea is to have the top (as it
were) of the loaf in contact with the tiles or whatever so it could get hot
and brown. I have a pullman pan, so I haven't needed to improvise.
Clayton, in Breads of France, says "A lid can be devised for the ordinary
loaf pan by placing a board wrapped in aluminum foil or a small baking sheet
over the top of the pan or pans and weighing it down with 4 ot 5 pounds of
stone, brick, doorstop, metal bar or the like." I read somewhere else that
you should turn the loaves, in the pans, onto their sides at various times
during the bake to equalize the browning. I don't see how this is
necessary, but I've always done it and things turn out well, so why change
it. Sort of like wearing a copper bracelet to prevent elephant attacks.
"Always worn one, and never been attacked by elephants. Must work." :-)

Barry
Del Cecchi
19 years ago
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...
while we are on the topic, given a pan like a pullman pan or other
enclosed pan how does one figure out how much dough to use? Is there
some target density figure or rule of thumb?
--
Del Cecchi
"This post is my own and doesn’t necessarily represent IBM’s positions,
strategies or opinions.”
Dick Margulis
19 years ago
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...
Okay, I'll give that a shot.

Suppose you are looking for the increased crumb density associated with
a Pullman loaf (easier to spread sandwich fillings on, etc.).

Calculate the nominal volume of your usual loaf pan. For example, if
your usual loaf pan is 9 x 5 x 3 with a half-inch pitch (8.5 x 4.5 at
the bottom), you can use the formula you learned in solid geometry
class, which I'm too lazy to look up right now, don't actually recall
myself, and don't have the time to derive from first principles. Or you
can fill the pan with water and weigh the water (after taring the scale
with the empty pan).

Now do the same with the closed pan (calculate the volume or weigh the
water). If it's a hinged pan and you can only fill one half with water
... well, you can figure that one out for yourself easily enough.

Next, compute the ratio between the two pans' volumes. Call this R.

Okay, say you normally fill the loaf pan with W ounces of dough and you
get a nice crown mushrooming over the edge (not double the height of the
pan, in other words, but maybe an inch or so above the edge at the
highest point). If you were to squeeze that loaf down to the edge of the
pan, would it be the desired density for the Pullman loaf? If the answer
is yes, then put R x W ounces of dough in the closed pan. If the answer
is no, apply a fudge factor and recalculate.
Chembake
19 years ago
Permalink
Post by Dick Margulis
Calculate the nominal volume of your usual loaf pan. For example, if
your usual loaf pan is 9 x 5 x 3 with a half-inch pitch (8.5 x 4.5 at
the bottom),
Dick I have a suggestion.... to make it simplier, calculate the pan
volume like what you suggested then use that numerical value as the
basis for your dough weight.
Divide that calculated pan volume by a factor of 4 to 5 and you will
get the approximate scaling weight for that pan size.

To enable you to get a finer crumb grain you can divide the molded
dough per pan into two pieces and mold iit into a loaf and roll it to
make a slender cylinder and twist the two dough cylinder before you
place it inside your loaf pan.
Be sure that your twisted loaves fits the lengtht of your loaf pan.

Another way is to cut the molded dough loaf into 4 or 5 pieces equally
and and arrange it upright side by side ( arranged in a line )and
place the whole unit into the pan..
Dick Margulis
19 years ago
Permalink
Post by Chembake
Post by Dick Margulis
Calculate the nominal volume of your usual loaf pan. For example, if
your usual loaf pan is 9 x 5 x 3 with a half-inch pitch (8.5 x 4.5 at
the bottom),
Dick I have a suggestion.... to make it simplier, calculate the pan
volume like what you suggested then use that numerical value as the
basis for your dough weight.
Divide that calculated pan volume by a factor of 4 to 5 and you will
get the approximate scaling weight for that pan size.
Roy,

Could you run an example? Without knowing what units you're using
(especially for non-USians), that's not a very clear description. Inches
and ounces? Centimeters and grams? I'm confused.
Post by Chembake
To enable you to get a finer crumb grain you can divide the molded
dough per pan into two pieces and mold iit into a loaf and roll it to
make a slender cylinder and twist the two dough cylinder before you
place it inside your loaf pan.
Be sure that your twisted loaves fits the lengtht of your loaf pan.
That's true, in an open pan, but what would be the point of that in a
Pullman, especially if you planned on cutting it for finger sandwiches?
Post by Chembake
Another way is to cut the molded dough loaf into 4 or 5 pieces equally
and and arrange it upright side by side ( arranged in a line )and
place the whole unit into the pan..
Same question.

Dick
Chembake
19 years ago
Permalink
Dick
Barry made some explanation via Hamelman and he is right for the given
pan volume the expected scaling weight was spot on.
If somebody wants to convert that to metric system they can always
replace the appropriate conversion factors.
Now regarding your questions about the purpose of twisting and
arranging cut pieces on line that is to produce a more even crumb grain
that is desired by many consumers.
If you make a pullman bread by straight grain molding the crumb grain
is uneven.

The point on having a finer grain crumb is based on customer
preferences..... and its expected that square sided pullman loaves
should have even sides and crumb appearance
...
barry
19 years ago
Permalink
"> If you make a pullman bread by straight grain molding the crumb grain
Post by Chembake
is uneven.
Hi,

Could you exdplain this a little more? I thought that tightly confining the
dough/bread would be enough to ensure that the crumb would be tight. Are
you saying that you would need to mold the dough tightly, i.e., press out
all air and then roll tightly? Or is there more to this?

Barry
Chembake
19 years ago
Permalink
Post by barry
"> If you make a pullman bread by straight grain molding the crumb grain
Post by Chembake
is uneven.
Hi,
Could you exdplain this a little more? I thought that tightly confining the
dough/bread would be enough to ensure that the crumb would be tight. Are
you saying that you would need to mold the dough tightly, i.e., press out
all air and then roll tightly? Or is there more to this?
Barry
Hello Barry
Pullman loaves are typically baked on closed tins and the resulting
bread crosssectionally is square sided. The bread usually is expected
to be close grained that is why there is need for alternative molding
method to promote that kind of uniform crumb grain.
Chembake
19 years ago
Permalink
Post by Dick Margulis
Roy,
Could you run an example? Without knowing what units you're using
(especially for non-USians), that's not a very clear description. Inches
and ounces? Centimeters and grams? I'm confused.
Dick
Dick I have calculated the dimensions in both American and metric
system

Say for example you are given a pan dimension of
9 inches by 5 by 3 inches and you calculate the resulting pan volume as
L x W x H
Or 9 inches x 5 inches x 3 inches = 135 cubic inches now divide that
by a factor of 5 cubic inches per ounce(1.72 inches)3 you will get a
calculated dough weight for that pan size of 27 ounces

135 cubic inches/5 cubic inch/ounce = 27 ounces
Now supposing we want to convert that dimension into centimeters
Then multiply that by 2.54 cm per inch

9 inch x 5 inch x 3 inch x 16.39 cm3/ inches or 135 cubic inches x 16.
39 cubic centimeters/inch =2212.65 cubic centimeters .

Now the factor used was 5 cubic inch per ounce then convert that into
cubic centimeters per gram
=5 cu.in/ x (2.54 cu.cm/cu. in x 1 /28.35 grams =
= 5/ x 16.39cu,cm x 1/28.35 grams=2.89
cu.cm/gram
Use this factor to divide the metric converted pan volume
2212.65/2.89 =765.62 grams or in American system = 27 ounces

Therefore for Pullman pans if you use inches and ounces you will use
factor of 5 cubic inch per ounces
But if use the metric system you will use 2.89 cubic centimeter/ gram
as the dividing factor so as to get dimensionally equivalent values.
Pullman pans are supposed to be covered resulting in a square looking
cross sectional appearance of the cut bread.
Dick Margulis
19 years ago
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...
Thanks, Roy.
Del Cecchi
19 years ago
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Actually I have "crimp bread" pan which is cylinderical with waves. but
I can still handle 0.2 oz/cu in.
barry
19 years ago
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Gosh, all us old sports car types know that 60.5 cu in is a litre. We also
know that the 250GT Ferrari had a 181.5 ci or 3 litre engine. Most of just
can't afford to own one. :-)



Barry
barry
19 years ago
Permalink
Post by Del Cecchi
while we are on the topic, given a pan like a pullman pan or other
enclosed pan how does one figure out how much dough to use? Is there some
target density figure or rule of thumb?
--
Del Cecchi
Clayton, in Breads of France, says "Fold, punch.... Place in the pan. It
should come 1/3 of the way up the pan." I have made this bread a few times
and don't have any notes that contradict this, but 1/3 seems a little scant
to me.

Hamelman says, page 243: "For pullman pans that measure 13 x 3.75 x 3.75,
the dough weight is 2.25 pounds."

The volume is 183 cu in, and the volume per pound is 81 cu in / pound.

Now this may not help you a whole lot, and it probably only applies to
fairly small, square pans, but it's pretty simple to calculate. If you take
the time to do it, you shouldn't go too far wrong. Hamelman is pretty good
on most measurements and dimensions.

Ortiz, in The Village Baker, page 244, says the dough should come at least
half-way up the pan.

So there you have it. The consensus is a resounding "Beats me!"

I'd probably make up a tightly wrapped loaf that would fill just over half
the pan and see how that did. If you get too much more dough, you might
expand out of the mold.

Barry
rebecca
19 years ago
Permalink
Post by barry
Hamelman says, page 243: "For pullman pans that measure 13 x 3.75 x 3.75,
the dough weight is 2.25 pounds."
The volume is 183 cu in, and the volume per pound is 81 cu in / pound.
I've made this recipe, with that pan, and it came out just right for
fancy little sandwiches. I've kept the weight/volume ratio in mind
for other doughs, and it always works. The Hamelman recipe is the
best I've tried for that kind of sandwich bread, though.

--Rebecca
Susan O.
19 years ago
Permalink
Hello Everyone, I stumbled upon this group quite by accident and am thrilled
to have found a place like this. I hope to be able to contribute to the
group as well as pick up a few pointers.

Susan O.




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Mickey Zalusky
19 years ago
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...
Thanks for the directions. Will definitely try this with my next batch.
Shelley Harris
19 years ago
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I'm wondering ... why don't you just buy a Pullman bread pan?

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